Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are a class of chemical compounds often used in cosmetics and dermatology. AHAs are organic acids consisting of a carboxylic group substituted by a hydroxyl group on the adjacent carbon. AHAs can occur naturally as an acid component of many botanical substances, such as fruits, but they can also be synthetically produced. Common examples are lactic acid, citric acid or glycolic acid. 

Names and sources of commonly used AHAs: 

Lactic acid: Dairy 

Citric acid 

Mandelic acid: Acid almond 

Glycolic acid: Sugar cam 

tartaric acid: Fermante 

Ascorbic acid: Fruits 

Malic acid 

The indication area of products containing AHA ranges from moisturizing the skin, reducing wrinkles and, most importantly, deep chemical peeling of the skin. AHA in the treatment and prevention of acne: Acne occurs as a result of blockage of pores due to dead skin cells, oil (sebum) or bacteria. Exfoliating with AHAs helps loosen and clear up congestion. Continuous use can also prevent future blockages from occurring. AHAs also help reduce the size of enlarged pores, which are commonly seen on acne-prone skin. The skin cell cycle effect from exfoliating glycolic and lactic acids reduces acne scars. Anti-aging effect of AHAs:Following the use of Alpha Hydroxy Acid, decrease in rough texture and wrinkle as well as epidermal thickening and increase in dermal collagen thickness were observed in the researches. Skin discoloration: AHAs have shown to support smoother skin formation and also reduce skin color inequality.

Source:

improving the cosmetics of photography skin with glycolic. J Am Acad Dermatol 1997; 36:1011–3.

fuit acid. Dermatological and aesthetic correlation with alpha‐hydroxy acids (AHA). Hautarzt 1999; 50:448–60.

Alpha hydroxy. Clin Plast Surg 1996; 23:49–56. comparison of alpha‐ and beta‐hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately sever facial acne vulgaris. Dermatol Surg 2008; 34:45–50; discussion 1.

efficacy of an alpha‐hydroxy acid (AHA)‐based cream, even in mouturnotherapy, in patents with mild‐modate acne. G Ital Dermatol Venereol 2010; 145:319–22.

clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double‐blind vehicle‐controlled study. Dermatol Surg 1996; 22:455–60.

Treatment of photography – A personal comment and open study of the use of glycolic acid. J Dermatologist Treat 1993; 4:215–8. 

effects of alpha‐hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural. J Am Acad Dermatol1996; 34:187–95

Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA) are two main classes of hydroxy acids. Both Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and Beta hydroxy acids (BHA) act as exfoliant, while BHAs have been shown to be effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving overall skin texture. It is also used in the treatment of various skin conditions such as acne scars, scarring, pigmentation, skin dryness and wrinkles. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, are very similar to AHAs except for the difference in their solubility. Another notable feature is that unlike water solubility of AHAs, BHAs are soluble in lipids. Thanks to these properties, it is easier for them to penetrate the skin through fat follicles and they are more suitable for patients with oily skin and open comedones.BHAs (e.g. In addition to proving the anti-inflammatory effect of salicylic acid), their skin irritating effect has also been proven to be less than AHAs.

Arbutin is one of the most widely recommended skin lightening and pigment removal agents worldwide. Due to its structure, arbutin has activities that prevent the formation of melanin, which may be useful in the treatment of hyperpigmentation, and this causes it to be a recommended ingredient in skin tone inequality treatments. Arbutin is highly derived from the bearberry plant, but it is also found in low amounts in the leaves of pear, cranberry and blueberry trees, and in wheat, inhibiting the production of melanin. Why is arbutin important? Basically, the brown or dark spots that form on the skin are made up of pigments called melanin, which are produced by melanocyte cells that contain tyrosinase enzymes. Melanin causes discoloration in the skin and is actually melaninit is the skin’s means of defense against the sun and other factors, and during this defense, it creates permanent or temporary spots on the skin. These pigments can be activated any time they come into contact with UV rays, so too intense exposure to the sun is an important reason for spots to form or freckles to become visible. In the formation of skin spots, acne, hormones, misused cosmetics or drugs are as effective as the sun. When arbutin is applied topically, it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the formation of melanin. Thanks to this feature, it is used as skin lightening and dark stain anti.In the formation of skin spots, acne, hormones, cosmetics or drugs used incorrectly are as effective as the sun. When arbutin is applied topically, it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the formation of melanin. Thanks to this feature, it is used as skin lightening and dark stain anti.In the formation of skin spots, acne, hormones, cosmetics or drugs used incorrectly are as effective as the sun. When arbutin is applied topically, it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing the formation of melanin. Thanks to this feature, it is used as skin lightening and dark stain anti.

Important characteristics of arbutin;

Reduces sun-borne darkening of spots by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase.

compared to many anti-stain active substances, there is a low probability of irritation of the skin.

because it can be easily included in the care routine, it is compatible with other active substances.

it is also very effective in acne spots.

Source:

the signification of arbutin and its derivatives in therapy and cosmetics, Phytochemistry Letters, Volume 13, September 2015, Pages 35-40 

cosmetics for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available?, 2013 Jan-Mar; 6(1): 4–1.

Natural Resources Containing Arbutin. Determination of Arbutin in the Leaves of Bergenia crassifolia, 129–132. Archived from the original on 2011-08-23.

Darkening Preparations and the Hydroquinone Controversy, Sep-Oct 2007;20(5):308-13.

Vitamin C can help protect the skin from many problems such as sunburn, photo aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, dryness and uneven skin tone. Due to its antioxidant properties, vitamin C helps your skin in its natural regeneration process and contributes to the repair of damaged skin cells.

Benefits of Vitamin C on the Skin:

It neutralizes free radicals, cleanses and minimizes the visible impact of environmental stress on the skin.

Increases the production of barrier lipids and supports the moisture barrier of the skin.

Helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles, provides tighter and elastic skin.

lightens the skin by reducing the production of melanin and minimizes the appearance of dark spots.

improves skin cell regeneration and cleanses the dead and damaged skin.

increases collagen production.

Source:

Role of Vitamin C in Skinases. Frontiers in Physiology, 9.201

Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 17(4),pp.200-206.2004

sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 9(1), pp.22-27.2010

Zinc PCA is the Zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. It provides acne control by reducing sebum secretion and also helps the skin to maintain its moisture. Thanks to its structure, zinc metal salts dry out the inflammation caused by acne and at the same time reduce the secretion of sebum and control the activity of oil glands. It is a simple molecule structure, it is naturally produced by our body and is one of the “natural moisturizing factor” components that our skin produces to slow water loss. How does Zinc PCA work? Zinc PCA helps fight viruses and bacteria. Zinc also has anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to alleviate the redness and irritation associated with moderate to severe acne.

Zinc is also recommended for other inflammatory skin conditions, including:

Melasma

gulli disease

seborrheic dermatitis

Eczema

Zinc Treatment in Dermatology:

Zinc in its basic or various forms (salts) has been used as a therapeutic method for centuries. Topical preparations, such as zinc oxide, calamine or zinc pyrithione, are used in serums and creams as the active ingredient in photo-protection (sun protection) and skin-soothing agents. Its use has been recognized for a number of dermatological conditions over the years, including infections (warts, leishmaniasis), inflammatory dermatoses (acne vulgaris, rosacea), pigment disorders (melasma) and neoplasms (basal cell carcinoma). Zinc is a mineral in this form that regulates the production of sebum, reduces redness and irritation, and thus helps in the treatment of the skin with acne. Recent research, thoughit shows the fantastic role of zinc in preventing premature aging of the skin, as well as restricting the development of pathogenic microorganisms on the skin.

Source:

zinc l-pyrrolidone carboxylate inhibitors the UVA-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 by in vitro cultured skin fibroblasts, whereas it associations the collagen synthesis International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34:23-2. 2012

zinc salt inhibitors in vitro toll-like receptor 2 surface expression by keratinocytes European Journal of Dermatology 17:492-496.2007

zinc in skin pathology and care. Journal of Dermatological Treatment (2006), 17(4), 205-210. 2006

Zinc Therapy in Dermatology, 2014 Jul 10

Glycolic acid; Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) is one of the chemical exfoliants in the family. Improves the tone and texture of the skin, helping to improve its overall appearance. Provides a more vibrant, smooth and youthful looking skin texture. Glycolic acid is capable of penetrating easily into the layers of the skin thanks to its small molecular structure and is also an expert in removing the dead cells present in the skin and removing excess sebum.

Important benefits of glycolic acid:

helps reduce hyperpigmentation and contributes to the balancing of skin tone.

supports the production of collagen, supporting the removal of fine lines and deep wrinkles.

contributes to the removal of dead cells from the skin, helping the skin look more vibrant and smooth.

• helps to purify pores from fat, dirt and dead cells and is effective in reducing the appearance of pores. Since glycolic acid exerts a peeling effect on the skin, it can cause the skin to become vulnerable to UV rays. For this reason, it is necessary to use sunscreen after application and on the following days. Suitable for all skin except sensitive skin.

Source:

• The Effect of Glycolic Acid on the Treatment of Acne in Asian Skin, 19 June 2013, 25

• Glycolic Acid Treatment Increases Type I Collagen mRNA and Hyaluronic Acid Content of Human Skin, 20 December 2001, Cities: 21

Hyaluronic acid (HA) plays a multifaceted role in regulating various biological processes such as skin repair, wound healing, tissue regeneration, anti-inflammatory. Due to its extraordinary biomedical and tissue regeneration potential, HA is the indispensable active ingredient of dermocosmetic products. Improved skin hydration, which hyaluronic acid offers, takes place with collagen and elastin stimulation and skin surface restoration. Hymagic-4D, a combination of four kinds of Hyaluronic Acid with different properties, builds a three-dimensional network by targeting different layers of the skin to maintain moisture and impart moisture in the skin. In this way, the skin is completely moisturized and this directly increases the elasticity of the skin. 

Hyaluronic Acid 3-D impact technology;

1. Three-dimensional network structure; Hymagic-4D creates a three-dimensional network to maintain the moisture of the skin. 2. Correctly targeting different layers of the skin; Hymagic-4D when applied to the skin, targets different layers of the skin, such as the skin surface, cuticle, epidermis and dermis, thus providing immediate three-dimensional moisturizing effectiveness, it gives moisture from the outside and protects the moisture.

4 Different Hyaluronic Acid together; 

• Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer forms a protective dense film on the skin surface, which reduces water loss, as well as provides 24-hour hydration and anti-pollution/UV-proof capabilities. 

• sodium Hyaluronate protects moisture by keeping water on the skin surface and nourishes the skin surface.

• Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate adheres firmly to the skin surface layer and provides damaged skin repair with excellent hydration.

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate quickly penetrates the epidermis and dermis, moisturizes the skin from the inside and restores the lost moisture.

3. Three-dimensional moisturizing; the results of dermatological tests performed show that after 1 hour of application, the hydration of the skin of Hymagic-4D application increases rapidly by 155.1%, the loss of skin TEWL, that is, transepidermal water is reduced by 32.3%. Hymagic-4D can provide instant three-dimensional moisturizing activity to keep skin hydrated continuously. It improves skin moisture from the inside and makes the skin smooth and elastic.

Source:

International journal of biological macromolecules, 120(Pt B) September 2018. 

Caffeine is a powerful antioxidant known for its anti-aging benefits. Caffeine, which has a vasoconstrictor (vascular constrictor) effect, works by narrowing blood vessels, helps reduce inflammation and bloating. It also tightens, brightens, reduces wrinkles and visibly reduces cellulite in the body.

Benefits of caffeine:

Reduces puffiness: Caffeine is a great topical ingredient to improve swelling and improve circulation to the skin, so it is considered a vital ingredient for under-eye puffiness.

Contains Antioxidants: By using products that contain antioxidants, such as those found in caffeine, you can limit the amount your body produces free radicals, which in turn prevents the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

• Helps in Collagen Production: Caffeine aids collagen and elastin production through the amino acids it contains.

• Reduces Cellulite: Caffeine is the main component of cellulite creams and is formulated with components that increase blood flow to stimulate the removal of fatty acid from the fat layer.

Source:

• odakin pharmacology and physiology 26(1):8-14 January 201

• Does Caffeine Really Make a Difference in Skincare Products?. April 16, 2020

Niacinamide is one of the most common and used ingredients in the cosmetic and dermocosmetic industries that everyone is curious about. What makes this material special? Why do brands and users struggle to learn more about this every day? What is niacinamide? Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 and active niacin, an essential nutrient. Vitamin B3 deficiency can lead to skin problems. Niacinamide helps prevent Viramine B3 deficiency. Vitamin B3 also plays an important role in the name of digestion and mental health and supports the work of more than 200 enzymes in the body.

Why is Niacinamide Important?

The topical (skin use) form of niacinamide has a wide range of skin care benefits. These can be listed as below. Benefits of niacinamide for the skin:

Lipid barrier: Niacinamide helps your skin develop a ceramide (lipid) barrier, which allows the skin to retain moisture. This is especially beneficial for all skin types, especially individuals with eczema or mature skin.

minimizes redness and blemishes: Niacinamide helps relieve redness by reducing inflammation in eczema, acne and other inflammatory skin conditions.

minimizes the appearance of the pore: It keeps the skin smooth and moist, which leads to a natural reduction in pore size over time.

Regulates the fat ratio of skin: The benefits of moisture retention are not only for those with dry skin types. Niacinamide also helps regulate the amount of oil produced by the sebaceous glands and prevents excess sebum production.

protects against sun damage: Niacinamide also helps to regenerate healthy cells and protects them from damage caused by ultraviolet rays.

treats hyperpigmentation(color difference in skin): A study has found that niacinamide content can help lighten dark spots. The benefits were observed after four weeks. This is due to increased collagen production.

Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles: Niacinamide helps reduce some signs of sun damage, including fine lines and wrinkles.

Protects against cell damage from stress: Niacinamide helps build skin cells, while also protecting from environmental factors such as sunlight, pollution and toxins.

•Treats HIV infections: Following the use of niacinamide, you may see less lesions and improved skin tissue over time.Niacinamide Blackheads associated with acne, balances the rate of fat in the skin by controlling sebum production, which causes pimples and spots (naturally produced oil to protect and moisturize the skin).

•brightens the skin: Niacinamide reduces the color (pigmentation) of the skin by disrupting the action of one of the key enzymes necessary for melanin production, which is produced by the skin in response to harmful sunlight and causes darkening and pigmentation of the skin.

Source:

• everything you need to know using niacinamide on your skin, CBC Life, March 14, 2019.

• Niacinamide, Breast Cancer website sources, Therapeutic Research Faculty, Publishers of Natural Medicines, Prescriber’s Letter, and Pharmacist.

• Gehring W, Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin, J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004 Apr;3(2):88-93.

• The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production, J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101.

Panthenol is an active ingredient used in dermatology to maintain skin health, moisturize, soften and repair barriers.

Panthenol (B5)’in importance in Skin Care;

Panthenol is easily absorbed by the skin thanks to its fast penetration feature and shows its effect. since Panthenol is absorbed into the skin, it also improves the appearance of the skin by filling the wrinkles and cracks with water.

thanks to the water retaining feature of Panthenol ⁇ , it helps the skin to have a more beautiful and soft appearance.

How do we meet our vitamin B5 needs?

The best sources of vitamin B5 include fish, meat, whole grains, milk, eggs, avocados, mushrooms, peanuts, legumes. However, it needs to be eaten in large quantities to benefit the skin. For this reason, with the cosmetic products you use, the vitamin B5 needs of the skin should be partially met.

What is Vitamin B5 good for?

a Humidifier. It is used for intensive moisturizing of hair, nails and skin. It makes its moisturizing effect both by pulling and holding water from the outside to the skin; it acts as a sponge.

Increases elasticity of skin. It shows anti-aging effect by stimulating collagen production. It supports a fuller and younger skin formation.

It takes part in the development of the protective barrier function of the skin by increasing the synthesis of lipids in the outermost layer of the skin.

Source:

Vivo Efficacy and Properties of Semisolid Formulations Containing Panthenol, 2019 Feb;18(1):346-354. doi: 10.111/jocd.12527. Epub 2018 Mar 25

Panthenol, National library of medicine.

Design, Optimization and Characterization of Coenzyme Q10-And D-panthenyl Triacetate-Loaded Liposom, 2017 Jul.

Azelaic acid (COOH-(CH2)7 – COOH) is a medium chain-length saturated, 9-carbon atom dicarboxylic acid that has recently been shown to have important biological activities and some useful practical therapeutic applications. Barley is a type of acid that occurs naturally in grains like wheat and rye. Acid with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a gentler peeler compared to other acids, so it is also suitable for sensitive skin. Azelaic acid, which helps to improve skin tone and texture, is preferred especially in the treatment of acne and roza disease. It reduces the presence of bacteria that cause acne and inflammation, and the redness that occurs on the skin treats irregular skin tone problems. However, it also reduces keratin production, which can help limit skin cracks.

helps reduce acne problems. Azelaic acid has bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties against various aerobic and anaerobic microorganisms found in acne skin. It is a preferred type of acid for cystic acne. With its anti-inflammatory effect, it helps the spots to become less visible by opening up over time. Accelerates skin tone equalization by increasing cell renewal

Treats redness on the skin. Thanks to its content, it regulates the normal growth process of cells. It is effective in reversing the redness that occurs with vascular enlargement such as Roza

it has the effect of peeling. With regular use, it provides a smooth appearance by exfoliating the skin. Reduces the appearance of enlarged pores

reduce signs of dying. Because it contains reactive oxygen species, it equates skin spots and color tone, providing a younger and healthier looking skin appearance.

In-depth cleaning aims at cellular regeneration, prevention of acne, and at the same time, pore cleansing with sebum control and exfoliation. It also reduces wrinkles by stimulating collagen production and provides a smooth and shiny look.

Ferulic acid is an antioxidant-rich active that fights aging, fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration and damaged skin cells. Ferulic acid is easily absorbed by the skin and is a successful active ingredient when it comes to fighting free radicals and preventing cell damage. Ferulic Acid continues to protect and highly moisturize from the damage of ultraviolet rays in the wake of skin care. With its antioxidant properties, it accelerates cell repair, opens up photodas, innate stains, sun spots, freckles and dark spots that have kept you permanent. It gives a flawless skin that dazzles with its natural whitening effect. Helps prevent the signs of aging and the formation of mimic lines.Ferulic Acid plays a great role in tightening the skin as it contains abundant Vitamin C in its structure. It is very effective in collagen formation and accelerates blood circulation.

Tasmannia lanceolata, commonly known as Tasmanian Pepper or Mountain Pepper, is a shrub native to temperate rainforests and woodlands in the southeastern part of Australia. Tasmanian Pepper is a fruit of the Tasmanian lanceolata tree, which has a delicious taste and aroma similar to pepper with a combination of woody sweetness and plant tones. It is considered a superfood for the skin as it is rich in antioxidants that revitalize and rejuvenate the skin, treat dry, itchy and inflamed skin. Herbal active extract from Tasmanian pepper; it is a water-soluble (and alcohol-soluble) anti-inflammatory active ingredient. It has a soothing effect in cases of sensitivity such as irritation, burning, stinging and itching. It is effective in making the skin more comfortable by showing an immediate effect on skin redness.

Centella Asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola, is the homeland of Indonesia, China, India and Southeast Asia. Perhaps the most important feature of this particular plant, which is a rich source of amino acids, flavonoids, phytosterols and fatty acids, as a skin care product, is that it helps heal wounds, pimples and spots. Gotu kola accelerates blood circulation by increasing blood flow in the area in question on a skin struggling with such problems. Thanks to this, the skin, which increases oxygenation, is both renewed and strengthened. In general, we can summarize its benefits as follows:

The combination of amino acids, fatty acids, beta carotene and phytochemicals in its content accelerates the healing time in the treatment of skin spots, acne scarring, burns and wounds.

Strengthens the skin by increasing the antioxidants in the problem area of the skin.

Helps the skin maintain its elasticity by accelerating blood circulation.

udder Collagen fibers and thanks to its ability to form elastin, it delays skin aging, helps reduce wrinkles and cracks, and helps strengthen hair and nails.

Contributes to the removal of skin redness and dryness.

Improves epidermal barrier function of skin.

Helps to remove skin irritations.

A micro-algae that minimizes the appearance of aging after exposure to UV and blue light. Reduces skin damage caused by natural and artificial blue light sources and improves overall skin appearance.It acts as an anti-aging and sunscreen agent. Protects against UV and blue light-induced skin damage. It stimulates collagen III production and reduces the number of sunburn cells and oxidative stress. It also improves the overall skin appearance and offers a beautiful skin appearance. It contains amino acids, vitamins (B3), algae saccharides and minerals (Zn). It instantly and strongly reduces the hyper pigmentation and irritation on the skin after exposure to blue light and restores an even skin tone. It is used in the formulation of day, sun, post-sun and regenerative night care products.

In the laboratory environment.

fits total collagen up to 34% to reduce visible signs of aging due to solar light

protects fibroblasts (up to 50%) from UV stress and regenerates the functionality of fibroblasts (up to 200%) after UV stress

reduces the number of sunburned cells against UVA by 63%

, Living things:

proven to be highly effective against hyperpigmentation:

Instant reduction in skin pigment darkening (30%)

Rebalance faster to the normal pigmentation of the skin and restore equal skin tone

Reduced skin redness caused by blue light

Vivo:

Reduces blue light-induced free radicals by up to 35%.

Reduces carbonylated proteins from blue light up to 61%.

collagen III production increased by 29%.

It has the preventive effect of the formation of dynamic wrinkles. Helps to rebuild skin by stimulating collagen production. Helps moisturize the skin.

The form most commonly used in dermocosmetic products is retinol. In order to have an effect, it first converts to retinal, then to retinoic acid. The reason why all retinoids turn into retinoic acid is that only retinoic acid can bind to the receptors involved.

Increases the amount of GAG and collagen, allowing the appearance of wrinkles to improve.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is in the group of retinoids that increase collagen production in the skin. Because it activates the skin to produce new cells, it offers strong anti-aging effects from reducing the appearance of wrinkles when added to the skin care routine.

Retinol, which also plays an important role in the treatment of acne and provides solutions to almost every skin problem; helps to tighten pores, brighten and equalize skin tone, reduce the appearance of dark spots and control hyperpigmentation. It also acts as an antioxidant, fighting free radical damage, which is one of the causes of aging signs on the skin.

What to Consider in Use:

• Since vitamin A is quite unstable, it can lose its effectiveness as a result of contact with light and air. Should be stored in dark color packaging that does not take air.

• it should be applied only in the evening, as it can cause photosensitivity.

• It should always be used with moisturizers as it can cause dryness and irritation on the skin.

should be started by using Dushuk percentage.

Contraindicated in pregnancy.

Average effect is expected after 8-12 weeks.

Products containing peeling acids, such as alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and poly hydroxy acid (PHA), should be taken apart from these acids when using retinol because it will increase skin sensitivity.

Source:

role of topical retinoids in the treatment of photography. Drugs. 2005;65(8):1061-72.

Retinoids in. Clin Dermatol. Mar-Apr 1996;14(2):207-15.

cosmeceuticals: the evil the retinoid. Aesthet Surg J. 2010 Jan;30(1):74-7.

Bikowski JB. Mechanisms of the comedolytic and anti-inflammatory properties of topical retinoids. J Drugs Dermatol. 2005 Jan-Feb;4(1):41-7.

Acmella oleracea, its scientific name Spilanthes oleracea, is a plant of the Asteraceae family (Compositae) native to South America and grows spontaneously in all moist parts of the world, especially in Brazil, Peru and tropical Africa. It is common in Australia, India, Malaysia and Sri Lanka and is widely used in traditional medicine for the treatment of various ailments and ailments.

While improving the appearance of the skin, it shows the tensile effect, which acts as a natural facelift for the face. It contains fine yellow-red, almost flaky, flowers, 1.25% Spilanthol. It is a plant-based alkaloid. It is preferred because of its firming and anti-wrinkle properties.

Adi blueberries, which can be grown in acidic and organic areas of rich microclimate on the world, are located in the genus Vaccinium in the family Ericaceae, that is, fungiller. In some sources it is also known as “European Wild Mersini”. In some European countries, especially in the USA, thousands of hectares of blueberries are farmed. Cultivation in our country was started in Rize in 2000’ years.

It has been used in the treatment of many ailments due to its abundant phenolic compounds.Fruit and leaf extracts are used for their antioxidant and anti-aging effects in skin care.

It is a good source of anthocyanins, but what is anthocyanin?

Anthocyanins strengthen the skin’s defenses against environmental stressors (such as damaging UV rays), which help reduce the onset of wrinkles, dark spots and other signs of aging.

Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract has also been proven to offer calming properties.It is especially beneficial for problem or sensitive skin.

Another useful feature is that the antioxidant property of Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract is not only for the skin, but also in the formulation, it is understood that it is protective and stabilizing in certain mixtures.

Source:

International Journal of Food Sciences, August 2014, pages 594-601

Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology, March 2014, pages 27-35

pharmacognosy Research, July-September 2011, pages 173-177

Herbal Medicine: Biomolecular and Clinical Aspects 2nd edition, 2011, chapter

biofactors, January 2008, pages 249-266

Determination of phenolic compounds of G, Meteorite, Blueberries (Vaccinium myrtillus/Vaccinium corymbosum) with LC-MS/MS, (2013).

Octinoxate, also known as Octyl Methoxycinnamate.It is one of the most widely used, oil-soluble chemical solar filters.It is highly preferred since it has an elegan version in cosmetics. Absorbs UVB radiation from 280-320 nm and provides maximum protection at 310nm.

UVA does not protect against rays, so it must be supplemented with other filters.It is also not very stable.It loses 35% of its SPF protection ability in 10 minutes when exposed to sunlight.

It is allowed to be used up to 10% in the EU and up to 7.5% in the Americas.Therefore “Class is classified as safe” as it is used.

In vitro studies have shown that it can produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects.There is no need to panic at this point because studies have not been conducted on real people and under real-life conditions.Therefore it is also unnecessary to avoid Octinoxate altogether. However, if you are pregnant or a child under 2 years old, you can choose a physical (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide) or a new generation of filtered sunscreen to be on the super safe side.:)

Source:

• couteau, C. “Study of the efficiency of 18 sun filters authorized in European Union tested in vitro.” Die Pharmazie-An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 62.6 (2007): 449-452.

couteau, Celine, et. “Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro.” Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 44.1 (2007): 270-273.

chandelain, Eric and Bernard Gabard. “Photostabilization of Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) and Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (Tinosorb S), a New UV Broadband Filter.” Photochemistry and Photobiology 74.3 (2001): 401-406.

janjua, Nadeem Rezaq. “Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methyl-benzycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 123.1 (2004): 57-61.

Schlumpf, Margret. “In vitro and in vivo estrogenicity of UV screens.” Environmental health risks 109.3 (2001): 239.

Uvinul A Plus is also known as DHHB. A new generation, chemical sunscreen agent designed for high UVA protection and high photostability. Can be used up to 10% worldwide except for USA and Canada.

It has the same effect as Avobenzone. However, the stability of DHHB in the sun is much better than Avobenzone, since the ability of Avobenzone to absorb ultraviolet radiation will quickly decrease in the sun.Therefore, you need to add another UV absorber to the formula to reduce Avobenzone loss.DHB

Source:

udderhttps://haihangchem.com/products/diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate-cas-302776-68-7/?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c8P_qfQyp2HD6xPCpi11synM6PsCSwatvvPvR9u1oBk4BDayN9y9mhoCsCYQAvD_BwE

udderhttps://www.cosdna.com/eng/981df410268.html

udderhttps://incidecoder.com/ingredients/diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate

udderhttps://cosmetics.specialchem.com/product/i-basf-uvinul-a-plus-granular

Reaching a peak absorption of 304 nm; it is an oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin in the UVB and slightly in the UVA II range. Its protection is not strong enough on its own, but it is highly photostable (losing 95% of SPF protection in 10 minutes) and is often used to stabilize other photo-unstable UV filters such as Avobenzone.

It is also often used to improve the waterproofing of products.

The safety profile of octocrylene is usually quite good, but a review study in Contact dermatitis reports “increase in the number of patients with photocontact allergy to octocrylene. Adults who are mainly sensitive to ketoprofen and children with sensitive skin are more affected, so if you have a young child, it is worth paying attention when using sunscreens that contain octocrylene.

Source:

• couteau, C. “Study of the efficiency of 18 sun filters authorized in European Union tested in vitro.” Die Pharmazie-An International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 62.6 (2007): 449-452.

couteau, Celine, et. “Study of the photostability of 18 sunscreens in creams by measuring the SPF in vitro.” Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 44.1 (2007): 270-273.

Sucalia, Santo, and Matteo. “Incorporation in lipid microparticles of the UVA filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane combined with the UVB filter, octocrylene: effect on photostability.” AAPS PharmSciTech 10.2 (2009): 384-390.

Groot, Anton C., and David W. Roberts. “Contact and photocontact allergy to octocrylene: a review.” Contact dermatitis 70.4 (2014): 193-204.

It is an inorganic/physical sunscreen filter.2016 ’ shows that inorganic solar filters work mostly through absorption and only a little reflection, such as chemical filters (they reflect light in the visible spectrum, but not on the UV spectrum)

In cosmetics, it is also used as a thickener, opacifier and pigmentary agent, except for its sunscreen feature.

It provides a beautiful broad spectrum coverage and is quite stable. Its protection is very good between 290 – 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range), it is less good in the range of 350-400 nm (UVA I). Therefore it is better to opt for filters with UVA protection in sunscreens that contain titanium dioxide. Titanium Dioxide of normal molecular size also has a great safety profile, is non-irritating and does not contain any health problems.

The disadvantage of Titanium Dioxide is that its cosmetic version is non-elegant.Sunscreens containing titanium dioxide are often difficult to spread to the skin and leave a disturbing whitish color. The best solution the cosmetic industry has found so far to address this condition is to use nanoparticles. Small nano-sized particles both improve spreadability and reduce whitish tone, but unfortunately, it has been thought that they can bring new health problems.

According to research, the main concern with nanoparticles is that they are very small and are absorbed by more skin than we would like (ideally sunscreen should remain on the surface of the skin). Once absorbed, they can form undesirable complexes with proteins and promote the formation of bad free radicals, but in a 2009 paper on the safety of nanoparticles, “to date in-vivo and in-vitro studies show that the nano-sized particles in nanoparticles, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sunscreens do not penetrate the percuts until they have been identified”

Also, even when Titanium dioxide nanoparticles are used, the molecular size of the substance used to coat the nanoparticles is large enough to prevent them from going beyond the top layers of the skin. This means that you get the sun protection that titanium dioxide provides without the risk of damaging your skin or body. The coating process improves the application, increases the protection from the sun and prevents titanium dioxide from interacting with other components in the presence of sunlight, thereby increasing its stability.

Source:

Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland and Jeffrey. Ellis. “The safety of nanosized parts in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxideased sunscreens.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.

Monteiro-Riviere. A., et al. “Safety evolution of sunshine formulations containment titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study.” Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.

Cole, Curtis, Thomas Shyr, and Hao Ou‐Yang. “Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering.” Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine 32.1 (2016): 5-10.

Smitrijs, Threes G., and Stanislav. “Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness.” Nanotechnol Sci Appl 4.1 (2011): 95-112.

It is an inorganic/physical sunscreen filter. UVB provides almost the same level of protection against UVA II and UVA I and is considered to be the broadest spectrum solar filter available today. It is allowed to be used in sunscreens in concentrations up to 25.

It is also quite stable and non-irritating. So much so that Zinc Oxide also counts as skin protective and anti-irritation.It is also often used to treat skin irritations such as diaper rash.

As for the disadvantages, the version of Zinc Oxide is not a cosmetic. Dr. According to a research paper from Pinnell in 2000, although slightly less white than TiO2, it leaves an irritating whitish color on the skin. Here, too, nanoparticles are activated. A study published in Investigative Dermatology found that zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate the skin or damage the skin at the cellular level, even in repeated applications. Additional studies have found that nano-sized zinc oxide is not irritating, similar to non-nano zinc oxide.

You can find out more about nanoparticles under the title Titaniom dioxide J

Zinc oxide is sometimes used in makeup to give opacity to products such as foundation, especially powder-based makeup.

Source:

pinnell, Sheldon R., et al. “Microfine zinc oxide is a superior sunscreen ingredient to microfine titanium dioxide.” Dermatologic surgery 26.4 (2000): 309-314.

Newman, Marissa D., Mira Stotland and Jeffrey. Ellis. “The safety of nanosized parts in titanium dioxide–and zinc oxideased sunscreens.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 61.4 (2009): 685-692.

Monteiro-Riviere. A., et al. “Safety evolution of sunshine formulations containment titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in UVB sunburned skin: an in vitro and in vivo study.” Toxicological Sciences (2011): kfr148.

Cole, Curtis, Thomas Shyr, and Hao Ou‐Yang. “Metal oxide sunscreens protect skin by absorption, not by reflection or scattering.” Photodermatology, photoimmunology & photomedicine 32.1 (2016): 5-10.

Smitrijs, Threes G., and Stanislav. “Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness.” Nanotechnol Sci Appl 4.1 (2011): 95-112.

Journal of Investigative Dermatology, February 2019, pages 277-278

nanomaterials, March 2017, 27-31

Ponticle and Fibre Toxicology, August 2016, page 44

International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2014, pages 273-283

Indian Journal of Dermatology, September 2012, pages 335-342

Archives of Toxicology, July 2012, pages 1063-1075

Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, & Photomedicine, April 2011, pages 58-67

American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, December 2010, pages 413-421

udderhttps://cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/zinc-oxide-0?gclid=CjwKCAjw3_KIBhA2EiwAaAAlipF1YpJBfZrmUbDnK6jm68_2f-GfsdZ770fVI15BFzZJtiFcCJjAWxoC3SkQAvD_BwE

Known as shea butter. It is obtained from the karyite tree and is used as a softener in cosmetics.

Shea butter not only has a rich texture; it is also a rich source of antioxidants, including quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin; vitamins A,E,F, as well as fatty acids (stearic and linoleic) that renew the skin. It is one of the ingredients we want to see in products designed to improve dry skin.

Source:

Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, June 2011, pages 45-55

Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, October 2003, pages 6,268-6,273

Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, February 2009, page S41

Vitamin C has three proven amazing effects: antioxidant, collagen enhancer and skin brightener. But the problem is that, because of its very unevenness, it oxidizes and turns brown and soon (after a few months) becomes ineffective.

Therefore, manufacturers have started to produce and test vitamin C in derivative form as an alternative to pure vitamin C. Here we will examine the Ethyl Ascorbic Acid known as 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate.

It is an etherified derivative of “ascorbic acid” consisting of a group of ethyls attached to vitamin C and the third carbon position”. This makes vitamin C very stable and soluble in both water and oil.

Due to the slower process of conversion to pure vitamin C, 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid is considered a more tolerable form of vitamin C. The pH range required for optimum stability is higher than that required by ascorbic acid for ideal stability, and EAC is an interesting alternative if your skin has not been able to tolerate products of higher concentration (10% and above) vitamin C (ascorbic acid).

The levels of use in skin care of EAC ‘ range from 0.5-5%.Dates above 5% can also be used depending on the desired benefit.In human skin samples, amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating.

However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work, it is not only enough to be stable, but they also need to be absorbed into the skin and converted there into pure Vitamin C. Regarding the conversion, we can only mention one claim that manufacturers say that EAC is metabolized to pure ascorbic acid in the skin, but according to some tests that show it can enter the skin, it seems to be better than another vitamin C derivative, Ascorbyl Glucoside.

It can fade hyperpigmentation and offers equal anti-aging benefits with pure vitamin C.

It has been suggested that both the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect of EAC exists, and it is claimed that the skin can increase collagen production.EAC’s strong point is skin polishing. Aside from manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten skin.

Source:

journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects

Free Radical Biology and Medicine, September 2021, pages 151–169

Life, May 2021, pages 1–1

International Journal of Pharmaceuticals, December 2019

Journal of Cosmetic Science, July-August 2018, pages 233–243

• APDIAPS PharmSciTech, June 2016, pages 767–77

It is a super-common, safe, effective and cheap molecule that has been used for over 50 years.

It is a natural moisturizer, also found on our skin.It is not only a simple moisturizer, but much more: it keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to regenerate the barrier.

A 2005 study showed that glycerin levels are associated with skin hydration levels, so more glycerin means better hydrated skin.

• It ensures that the adhesive substance between the skin cells is neither very diluted nor very concentrated (this is called osmoregulation)

• helps to maintain the healthy state of cell membranes and intracellular lipids (keeps the lipids in a beautiful liquid crystal state, which is optimal for barrier function)

• It can normalize skin shedding on very dry skin.

• Provides protection against skin irritation (such as washing your face too much and/or too aggressively)

%although it provides even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40%, it is also effective at a rate as low as 3. About 10% is a good usability-effectiveness point. It is possible to convert this amount into a relatively light, non-sticky and not too heavy formula (yes, glycerin is sticky and it is really difficult to convert high % into a cosmetically elegant formula) but 10’u also shows all the wonderful therapeutic effects.

100% pure glycerin is also not good for the skin. Too much glycerin (and humectans in general) can draw water from the lower layers of the skin.This creates a problem because once the water enters the upper layer, some of it will evaporate.This is called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). If there is too much TEWL, the skin will dry out.

This was also confirmed by one study: skin treated with 5% 99.7 glycerin for 5 days showed that SC (the outermost layer of skin) after treatment was not visibly different from untreated control.The same study examined 5% of lotcerin

In conclusion: glycerin is much more than a simple moisturizer.It is a superstar that deserves more attention and is not appreciated enough.

Source:

Leslie Baumann, MD, Cosmetic Dermatology, 2nd edition, Glycerin-pages 275

journal of investigative dermatology., 2005 Aug;125(2):288-93., Is endogenous glycerol a determinant of stratum corneum hydration?

Dairy Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function by Marie Loden, Howard. Maibach, chapter 20: Glycerol — Just a Moisturizer? Biological and Biophysical Effects